We have been to Luxor many times since our Nile Cruise introduction to Egypt in 1996. We have also been to different places in Egypt from Cairo to Abu Simbel and east to the Red Sea resorts on a total of well over 20 occasions. We have seen many of the historical attractions that Egypt has to offer, some of them several times, and this was to be just a short visit for some winter sun and to ‘chill and relax’.
I have included a selection of pictures but there are none of Tombs and Temples, just holiday snaps focussing more on people than places. I travelled light, didn’t take the DSLR or a tripod, just a little new Fuji compact camera. I had not studied the manual and as I had some difficulty with the flash, switched it off most of the time. Hence some pics are very grainy. I have not used any names in the following notes to protect individual privacy……..Anyhow I will now proceed………
We have stayed at other hotels in Luxor but this was the tenth successive time that we have stayed at the Steigenberger Nile Palace. The hotel is beginning to get a little tired but we know most of the staff, always get a warm welcome, and in response to an advance email we got our favoured room 218. This is right at the front of the northern wing and with an uninterrupted view across the river to the West Bank.
These three pictures are; looking North West from our balcony; the hotel viewed from the Nile side of the pool; and the ‘Shisha’ station in the ‘Nubian Village’ between the hotel and the Nile. I have added a picture of The Sonesta, next door, for those who may have stayed there in the past and not seen the additional four floors that were added on top.
Every Wednesday the Nile Palace provides feluccas and lunch for the weekly party that comes from Hurghada on the whistle stop tour of Tombs and Temples in Luxor. On the first Wednesday there were 170 in the party so 14 feluccas were required. Here are two pictures of them being prepared and one of them being towed away for their one hour lunch cruise up and then down to the West Bank moorings before joining their coaches for the antiquities visit.
We know a boatman that we have used regularly for about seven years but as I had mislaid his mobile number we took the public ferry across to the West Bank and went for a stroll along The Ramla for old times sake. We did take an apartment there three years ago and also have ex-pat friends living along there. Unfortunately they were back home at the time but after a stop for mint tea we soon found our boatman when we returned to the motor boat moorings and he took us back to the hotel in his motor boat.
These four pictures are, the mobile ‘filling station’ for the boats and vehicles requiring petrol (I was half expecting to see someone smoking); two scenes along The Ramla; and our return to the hotel on the motor boat.
On the way over, our friend invited us to his home for dinner on the Sunday evening. We have never met his young wife and were very happy to accept. He collected us at the hotel to take us to the boat moorings and then by taxi to his home in a village a few miles south. The village scenes on the way were wonderful and although we have been to the villages many times I am always struck by the way of life of the village dwellers and how everything comes to life after dark. Our friend has his own mud brick house and we were very warmly welcomed by his wife who had prepared dinner for us. The soup, chicken, vegetables and rice was very tasty and prepared in the most basic of kitchens. The light in his house was very low and three of the following pictures were without flash and one with flash.
His young wife is really beautiful. We try never to go empty handed and found things to offer as gifts. His wife disappeared for a moment and returned with a small bottle of nail varnish as a reciprocal gift for my wife. She then told us that she would like to cook dinner for us every evening……such a sweet thought.
Moving on, here are just a half dozen snaps of boats on the river and looking across to the hills. Hatshepsut is clearly visible in the three pictures of the hills taken from our balcony. The paddle steamer is the Sudan that cruises between Luxor and Aswan. Contrary to what it says in Wiki, she is a side wheeler not a stern wheeler and nearly 100 tears old.
Now some people pictures. Well, not the first one, that is one of the many kingfishers but the others are felucca captains; the lady making bread in the ‘Nubian Village’; and daughters of shopkeeper friends. I couldn’t resist the final one of the young lady, I would have preferred to take her portrait but her companion was a rather big bloke…..
Who takes pictures of their food? Well I do because I couldn’t tell you about our trip to Luxor without talking about food. Little Britain street just across the road is OK, with Deans Bistro, The Lantern, Snobs, Secret Garden and more; but there is nothing authentic Egyptian. We found a new restaurant in Karnak. The first picture is my wife talking to our driver; and on the first visit made the mistake of ordering from the ‘Main Course’ listing. We are not big eaters and when my mixed grill (Egyptian style) arrived I couldn’t believe my eyes. My wifes choice was equally large and although any young man would have cleared his plate with relish I am afraid we could only manage about half. On our two subsequent visits we opted to have the lentil soup that was really very good and then make up a meal with and assortment of starters, meze style.
We were at the pool area overlooking the Nile most lunch times. In past years the lunch time snacks and salads have been very adequate but we found the standard had declined. A better alternative was soon found in the form of starters from the Thai restaurant. These are prepared by a genuine Thai chef and the spring rolls, or chicken satay, or crispy fried calamari, all with crackers and dips were a much better alternative; see picture below. I think the room service manager was aware that we were regular guests because on three occasions we found a fruit bowl and petit fours in our room. And some of the staff referred to me as ‘Mr John’. I felt very important.
And Finally three pictures at and after sunset. The felucca crewman ‘reefing’ the sail for the night; a sunset with the rare inclusion of some clouds; and the Theban Hills, illuminated from 7 to 10 each evening…..even when there are regular power outages…..
As I said at the start, no pictures of tombs or temples, just a selection of random holiday snaps. I hope you liked them.
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Just a few comments about how we found things, post revolution. There is no doubt that those who work in tourism are having a difficult time. The Nile Palace is averaging 25 to 40% occupancy. This has resulted in all staff taking a cut in wages in order to keep their jobs. Coupled with the drop in tips their income is about half what it was two years ago. We were told that in some hotels the staff receive no salary and have to rely on tips.
We discussed the changes since January 2011 with many people in tourism and the associated restaurant and shop businesses and, without exception, they all regret the overthrow of Mubarak because life was much better pre revolution and they have little confidence that it will improve in the near future. Morsi is seen as weak and they are crying out for strong leadership at the top.
Law and order is almost non existent and as one shopkeeper told me, they have to deal with any problems or local disturbances themselves. There is verbal abuse from young people usually in the form of “F… off” I have mentioned on another thread that there is a serious shortage of fuel for the vehicles and boats. Power outages are more frequent now. We did notice however that hassle is much less and in most cases “la shukran” is accepted and they leave you alone. Begging children may need a more abrupt “imshi”
The daily temperature was 28 when we arrived and up to 34 when we left. We had a most enjoyable winter break and really love Luxor and its people. We hope most sincerely that things will improve for them in the very near future. The desire to go back soon is already with us………
Really great photos too especially if this was the new Fuji. First time I've seen the completed Sonesta too. It was being worked on last time I was there (but I couldn't tell you which floor - I kinda think maybe the first). I'd almost swear I know your driver too (the one in the photo with your wife) but I couldn't even hazard a guess at a name - maybe Mohamed and my second guess would be Ahmed 
I absolutely pine for the sunshine and the sunshine of Egypt in particular - and you've given me some! The pain in my leg is made much more bearable by reading your post! I'm so glad you and your wife had a good time but very sad to hear of the decline. The food photos were an inspiration because my DH eats an enormous amount and I eat very little so it's good to see the size to be expected beforehand! I could probably eat about a quarter of that mixed grill - whereas DH could manage it easily and the rest of mine too! 
But I have not blocked you in any way....promise 
My computer is chugging along real find just not figuring why suddenly all the photos are blocked to me.