Dubrovnik Revisioted

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Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Grandad »

Jayway mentioned that Croatia had been described as NOT a holiday destination. It all depends what you want from a holiday. My sister and partner travel the world to ‘walk’, what’s wrong with Yorkshire or the Lake District? Other friends travel to exotic destinations, stay in resort hotels and never leave the hotel complex. Go to Cornwall I say! For us, we like some sun, some culture, nice hotel, good food, and photo opportunities for me. So it all depends on individual expectations. ;)

So here is our short holiday experience from last week, rather long I’m afraid but I did it in one edition.

Croatia was one of the former Yugoslav states which became independent after the Yugoslav wars through the 1990’s. This is recent history and the wars involved ethnic conflicts in Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia, Kosovo, Macedonia and in Croatia (1991 – 1995) between Croatian forces and the Serb controlled Yugoslav People’s Army.
The Old City of Dubrovnik, the Pearl of the Dalmatian Coast, was considerably bombarded by Serb troops who took up positions on Srd Hill, high above the city.


Then and now.
[/size]6501 6489

Old Dubrovnik is a small and beautiful walled city which, after the war, was completely restored and now shows no sign of the artillery damage. Croatia is a most recent new member of the EU, at present retaining its own currency, the Kuna, but will possibly join the Euro zone in the future. The Euro is widely accepted right now in many establishments. There are around 1400 small to medium sized islands along the Croatian coast, only a small number of which are inhabited and many can be visited on boat trips.

We first visited Dubrovnik in 2012 and on that occasion we stayed at the Valmar President Hotel, just a short bus ride from the old city. That was on the beach and just around a point from Gruz Port so we would see the cruise ships coming and going each day. We enjoyed our stay but thought it might be nice to stay nearer the old city on any return visit. Having heard very good reports about the Hilton Imperial Hotel built in 1897, we decided to indulge in a little luxury for the week.

The Hilton Imperial Hotel 6470

We booked British Airways and even for the short 2 hour 20 minute flight from London Gatwick, you still receive complimentary drinks and a sandwich, plus a good luggage allowance of 23 Kg. A mid day flight each way was very civilised compared with some of the unearthly package trip timings. The hotel was everything you might expect and here is a short account of our week in this lovely, clean and very friendly country. Our holiday activities tend these days to be sedentary as befits octogenarians so no scuba diving or parasailing. :lol: :lol:

After unpacking we went out and found a good seafood restaurant, Mimosa, just across from the hotel. Most cooking was on a charcoal grill so off to a good start with whole sea bass on a bed of potato and chard. There are many very nice breads and I enjoyed the Mediterranean custom of olive oil with bread. All restaurants made a cover charge but this was always good value and included the basket of bread, an appetizer of pate’ or something similar and water and, in some cases, a glass of house wine.

The Grill Chef at the Mimosa 6453

The hotel was just a five minute walk from Pile Gate, one of the two entrances to the old city, the other being Ploce Gate at the harbour end. On day one we decided to stay in and around the city rediscovering some places and a few new ones. The old walled city has many ancient buildings including churches, a monastery, museums, and art galleries. The main street, Stradun, is wide and pedestrianised. There are no vehicles inside the walls. Each side of Stradun there is a maze of narrow alleys containing some nice quality shops, residences, and restaurants that have their tables in the alleys. There is a lovely atmosphere after dark.

Local artist at pile gate 6454 Franciscan Monastery Garden 6456
Restoration work inside monastery 6455 1317 Pharmacy inside Monastery 6457
Church of Saint Salvation 6459 Onofrios Big Fountain 6466
National dress musician at the fountain 6458
Typical alley 6464 Typical alley 6460
Young people on steps of Church of St Blaise 6494
Pile Gate at night 6475 Stradun at night 6472 Restaurant in alley 6474

Day 2 we got bus tickets (one price £1.20 for one stop or the whole trip) and went for a bus ride high above the port and old city. A restful afternoon around the hotel, then the Mimosa again for dinner. (At the hotel we had an executive room on the top fourth floor which also included use of the executive lounge with complimentary drinks and splendid views around the city and coast)

We had booked a day trip to 3 islands on this vessel but as it was 12 hours we cancelled
and lost our money. But not a fortune. 6469
One of the cruise ships in Cruz Port. Normally 3 call each day 6468
View over the old city from the lounge balcony. 6486

Sunday, day 3, we booked a private car to go to Mostar about 100 miles to the north. We well remember the bridge at Mostar that was blown up during the wars. This was ethnic between the Muslims on one side of the river and the Catholics on the other. The bridge was rebuilt and a ‘must see’ for me although the ‘tourist tat’ in the area of the bridge spoiled what could be a fine historical relic.

Coffee stop at Pocitelj 6476
One of the many tourist tat stalls at Mostar 6481
The famous bridge at Mostar 6477 Spanning the Neretva river 6479
View of the muslim side 6478 Old buildings along the Neretva 6480
A reminder left untouched in Mostar 6482

As an aside, our driver, Spoyan, lives in Dubrovnik and in 1992 his 16 years old son was required to join the army. Spoyan decided that he was not going to risk him being killed and sent him to England to improve his English language to ‘native’ standard. He then went on to University in the UK and now has a very good job in IT. Spoyan and his wife were moved to a hotel for the rest of the war when the Serb army requisitioned his home for their officers. When he was eventually allowed to return EVERYTHING inside the house had been removed and all the doors, windows and roof had been taken by the Serbs.; He had to start again.

Mrs G with driver Spoyan 6483

On our previous visit we had taken the cable car to the top of Srd Hill where there is a very good restaurant and a museum of the war. On day 4 we did a return trip and spent about 4 hours at the top including a leisurely lunch and Mrs G acquiring a rather nice sun hat. We took our first ever (and probably last) ‘selfie’ which I have included for you to see.

View from Srd Hill 6485 Our one and only selfie (with the HS50 :( ) 6484

I know I am waffling on a bit but I need to link the pictures to the locations. Day 5 included a 45 minute boat trip south to the little coastal village of Cavtat. A very pleasant spot with shady cafes around the quayside.

Pictures at and leaving Cavtat 6491 6492 6493

In our wanderings earlier in the week, we had found a small cove down alleyways opposite the hotel, with a great little quayside restaurant. We went back at lunchtime on day 6. A sharing hot dish of shrimps and mussels in tomato and garlic sauce was our lunch. As it was so good we went back after dark for dinner.

Scenes around the cove 6471 6496 6497 6499 6498
Some of our seafood dishes ;) 6500

So there we are. In well over 1000 words that was our leisurely sojourn enjoying some of the sights in and around Dubrovnik. The roads out of town are very good, the country is clean and free of litter, we didn’t see one bit of graffiti anywhere, and the people are really very friendly and learn English from the age of five. They are people who are prepared to work hard. Employment is high, we did not see one beggar or down and out. Neither did we see any immigrants from North Africa, or anywhere else come to that. One of the lounge attendants who walks the 20 minutes home after 11pm said she has no fear of being mugged or attacked.

The majority of tourists are Chinese and Japanese, and the ‘selfie stick’ is here to stay
Two of the many selfie users 6467 6461
And finally, Chinese tourists climbing steps to Walk around the wall.6465


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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by LovelyLadyLux »

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Super fantastic Grandad! Totally awesome! :) :) :) And each and every photo could tell a story all on its own.

My link to Croatia is that when I was young and in my prime and in first year university I studies the Serbo-Croatian language for half a semester. I'd made up my mind to be a linguist as languages come fairly easy to me but due to circumstances I only took Jan to March study and then ended. It was DOBRO (good) and I can still remember quite a few words and phrases "Kako ste vi?" (How are you?) etc etc etc.

You've definitely whet my appetite for going there and seeing it for myself. :) :) :)
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Ruby Slippers »

Grandad, thanks for such a fantastic and comprehensive post! Your photos are great. I've never even thought of going to Croatia but you've certainly made it seem worthy of consideration - even if only for the seafood! :tk How was it price wise?
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Mad Dilys »

Thank you Grandad, a lovely start to the day.
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Kiya »

Lovely colourful photos of your week & very interesting :)

Love the selfie ;) & thank you for sharing :)

When my daughter & sil were there for honeymoon they captured some beautiful sunsets :)
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Jayway »

WOW !!! lovely, Grandad and thankyou. What are those black bat like things on the wall at the cove ? You have just returned, I see people eating outside so it must have been quite warm ? I would love to visit going by your trip, seemed safe and no problems. Bottom right on the food pic, what do you call them? I dislike them as all the guests I had to take out ordered them, really make your fingers sore. Here they are lagustino ? What were the prices of the food? First time I have seen a selfie stick, does it press the button? If it does, what a great idea for solo tourists like me . . and that IS a very nice sunhat - - -
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Horus »

Grandad as usual you have excelled yourself with this utterly pleasant and insightful travelogue of your visit. Wonderful pictures that capture a very beautiful place, it is definitely on my list of places to visit, so bright clean and attractive, it has really opened my eyes to the place. I am glad that you managed to visit the bridge at Mostar, such a symbol of mans hatred and then of reconciliation. I well remember seeing it destroyed during the war and feeling really sad that such an iconic thing should be destroyed in a conflict that seemed to have no logic other than an ethnic hatred stirred up by intolerant people, similar to that of ISIS today. I remember seeing them retrieving the original stonework from the river gorge below to carry out the rebuilding work using as much of the old bridge as possible and it gladdened my heart to see this reconciliation between what had always been good neighbours in the past. So thanks for taking the time to record and show us what was obviously a very enjoyable holiday for yourself and Mrs G. :up
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Grandad »

Thank you for all your lovely comments folks. Our holiday horizons look no further than 2 or 3 hours by plane these days so that means Europe. Our days of 10 and 12 hour flights are long gone.

Horus, you summed up my personal feelings about Mostar perfectly. I just HAD to go there. We could have done the whole day coach conducted tour including another stop but in all that would have been about 12 hours. Our private car option meant we could go as we pleased and were back in about 7 hours. The cost was little more than the coach tour for the two of us.

Now then, I can always rely on you ladies to ask the questions, just like my wife. ;)

LLL, Dobro Dosli (Welcome) is al over the place. I don't know a word of Croat but it sounds so much like Russian but is nothing like it in written form. RS, I would say that prices in general are lower than in the UK and much cheaper than Italy. A few examples below. Jayway, The things hanging on the wall are wet suits for the snorkel shack. Those strange creatures are Langostines, look interesting but not much flesh, mostly head.

Temperatures through the week were mid to upper twenties with two days reaching 32. The selfie sticks have a button or 'blue tooth' link to the mobile phone. And thanks Jay, the sunhat was a success. :up

Some prices converted to approximate pounds. Lunch for two with beer or wine and coffee, £25 for two, dinner again with beer or wine and coffee £30 - £40 for two. Cable car £10 return (you can walk down for half the price if you are REALLY fit :lol: ) Boat to Cavtat £8 return, taxis are cheaper than UK and most local journeys ar £4 - £8, our car hire with driver for the day £140. Prebooked 30 minute airport transfers £22 each way. Our holiday cost through British Airways holidays at 5 star Hilton in executive room was £1700 room and breakfast. But I did say we indulged ourselves on this occasion. Lovely ice cream, a couple of quid. :lol:
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by LovelyLadyLux »

Read your account Grandad and it was terrific but now ;) I have questions ;) Quite appreciated the prices too as your account is definitely putting Croatia into my mind as a holiday destination. Was your trip 10 days?

Quite intrigued by the pharmacy inside the Monastery and all the jars presumably to hold all the different compounds. Am hoping this was a tour so you'd have info on it but did Monks way back when typically hold & make pharmaceuticals for the people? or themselves? OR was this specific to this order?

And - still on the jars - I can't quite make out the pattern on the jars but were they Asian? Do you think they were original to the Monastery or put there specifically for the tourists?

Am only asking as I have quite a fascination with churches and other big old buildings but don't believe I've ever seen a pharmacy in any one of them I've visited so this is quite unusual for me to see. On the one hand it makes sense for Monks to have a pharmacy if they're administering medically to the people so just wondering if pharmacies were typical or if this was a unique feature of this particular Monastery.
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Jayway »

THANKYOU ... Grandad I dont know what your legs are like but going down is worse than climbing up - - - I heaved my self up to a very high place in Jordan, the steps were 2 foot high- going down was very awful, had to keep sitting down ! Didnt realise it was so warm, must have been lovely on the boat. I see everyone eating icecream by the fountain - thats it. I want to go - - :D
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Grandad »

LLL, we were only in Dubrovnik for 7 nights. A 3 night stop over would be sufficient to just see the old city and the locality. I don't walk too well so our mobility is curtailed somewhat but there are opportunities to visit some of the islands that I understand are worth the trip. Korcula is one not too far off by local ferry and a sort of miniature version of Dubrovnik.
I don't know what the actual date is of the pharmacy but it was founded in 1317 and this link may give a little more info. ( Photography was forbidden so I had to sneak a couple) We don't do guided tours. Apart from the walking we find the depth of information a bit too much to take in. Like the first time in Egypt. :lol:
http://www.dubrovnik-travel.net/old-pha ... monastery/

Jayway, I have a blue badge so need say no more about walking and climbing steps. :lol:
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by LovelyLadyLux »

@Grandad - interesting link re: pharmacy and would have been a super interesting place to see.

I agree with the organized tours. I typically avoid like the plague but sometimes in some places you can pick up tidbits.

And - you'll have to let me know - what is the "blue badge" ?
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Grandad »

@LLL :lol: :lol: :lol: You never miss a thing do you LLL? ;)

Because I have a condition that gives some walking disability I am able to claim a 'Blue Badge' which allows me to park on yellow road markings and in reserved blue badge parking bays. Getting older does have its problems but also some small benefits. :lol:

Mrs G has just read this thread and reprimanded me for inferring that WE are octogenarians when she is not.......quite yet. :lol:
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Horus »

Mrs G has just read this thread and reprimanded me for inferring that WE are octogenarians when she is not
Never even crossed my mind Grandad, I thought it was your daughter ;) (creep, creep, :D )
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Post by LovelyLadyLux »

More questions Grandad (hope you were not thinking I was finished!) :P :P

Towards the first of the photos you included here there is a woman with her cache of paintings. Did you happen to look closely? Was she really painting these? And do you have a sense of how much she was selling them for?

In the "Typical Alley" photo - is it the camera or are most of the alleys really that narrow? I can see the chair is sort of sideways facing the wall and in another photo further below I can see the table set up with 1 person walking beside and the alley seems relatively full.

Lastly when I was in my first year university I met a Croatian fellow (who was dating one of my girl friends who was also Croatian). I quite recall going with them to the airport to pick up his "Stara Baba" (Old Woman is the direct translation but Baba basically is Mom. Stara is used as a nickname to Mom and most of the old women grandmas are called Stara Babas).

His mom got off the plane all wrapped up in a huge black wool scarf and heavy wool coat carrying a satchel which was all of her possessions. She had had 8 children and 7 were killed (except for her son, Milan, who was bringing her to Canada to live) by the Serbs during the war. The son Milan was the only one to escape as he was the baby and she was able to carry him as they were running to escape.

I remember it being a very hot day in the summer and she refused to let anybody turn down the windows in the car. She had lived without any amenities we would know and it took a long time for her to get herself situated and settled into apartment living. I also remember she made the best "dounas" (crepes) out of "yayas" (eggs) :eat

(Funny how many of my memories relate back to food and me eating. Am remembering more words too as I think back).
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Grandad »

LLL, I don't know about the artists but the pictures were around £40 for the large one and scale down through smaller sizes. I believe they are the work of various artists because when we were last there it was just the same person selling and we did not see any other picture sellers elsewhere. They were mostly local scenes and quite a good standard.

The alleys really are narrow, it is not a trick of the camera. ;) Here is another narrow one
6530

And this is the second 'main street' after Stradun. Stradun is very wide and the shops are all aimed at tourists BUT they are not allowed to tumble their wares out into the street so things are still smart and tidy. This street runs parallel to Stradun and has some very nice quality shops but the little restaurants are everywhere, no matter how narrow the street or alley.
6531

Each side of Stradun the alleys climb up. This picture is looking down towards Stradun from the sea (residential and nicer) side
6533

And this one looking down from the land (and cable car station) side.
6532

There is a lot of climbing up and down the transverse alleys but it really is a great little city. :up
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Horus »

The place looks fabulous Grandad and although old and a bit crumbly in places it still looks clean and well maintained, just what I like in an old city, old and worn pavements that have seen the passage of time, but still swept and clean and buildings with the patina of time on the facades, but no graffitti.
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by LovelyLadyLux »

Ditto what H said ;)

@ Grandad - am still on these narrow streets......

I guess I understand in yesteryear why streets were so narrow but could 2 donkey carts have ever passed on these streets? Is there any reason they are built so really close and narrow together? Wonder if the city was subject to attack and so they wanted the housing and streets narrow so as to be able to defend against marauders.

Are the city blocks of buildings built all going parallel to each other or are there squares? or ?

Am trying to visualize and think why (even from years and years ago) the streets would actually be that completely narrow. Wonder if the City planners actually planned this or if it just evolved? or ?

Anyway - the entire city sounds lovely and really sounds like the type of place I like. Neat and clean with lots of patina.

Interesting about the pictures too. The subject matter was different so I wondered if different artists were contributing. They looked pretty good and those prices were pretty decent too.
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Grandad »

LLL, I can't begin to even guess at answers to your questions. Looking at this picture you will see that there are many steps leading down from the hill side of town down to Stradun, the only street of any size.
6532
I doubt whether donkeys or mules could manage those steps so I have no idea how they carried the stone for the buildings.

In this picture from the top of Srd Hill you get some idea of the closeness of the buildings from the roof tops. The monastery is the rectangular roof with the cloister in the middle, about a third up, on the right hand edge of the picture.
6534

If you do get to Europe for 'The Grand Tour' LLL ;) I think you should include Dubrovnik. I would hope that like us you would enjoy the city. It is certainly not Rome but a compact little gem of a city. :)
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Re: Dubrovnik Revisioted

Post by Ruby Slippers »

Now I've been put off Dubrovnik, Grandad! :( I would never manage the steepness of the streets! Oh well!
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